How to Sew an Apron: Easy Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

Sewing an apron is one of my favorite beginner projects because it teaches useful skills without requiring complicated fitting, zippers, or advanced pattern work. For this tutorial, I make a simple bib apron with a finished body panel, neck strap, two waist ties, and an optional patch pocket using stable woven fabric such as quilting cotton, cotton twill, canvas, or a linen blend.

The most important steps are measuring before cutting, adding enough hem and seam allowance, pressing each fold, reinforcing the straps, and testing your sewing machine on a matching fabric scrap before stitching the visible seams. You can draft the apron directly from your own measurements, so the finished size, coverage, tie length, and pocket position can all be adjusted for the person who will actually wear it.

Quick Answer: How to Sew an Apron for Beginners Step by Step

To sew a beginner apron, prewash and press a stable woven fabric, measure the desired apron length and width, draft a simple bib shape, and cut the main body, neck strap, waist ties, and optional pocket. Finish the apron body’s raw edges with double-fold hems, make and press the straps, reinforce their attachment points, add the pocket, then give the whole apron a final press and fit check. A regular straight stitch works for most construction, and a 2.5 to 3.0 mm stitch length is a practical starting point on medium woven cotton, but always test the exact fabric, needle, thread, and machine first.

Key Takeaways

An apron is forgiving, but the small setup decisions determine whether it feels polished and comfortable. I focus on fit, clean hems, secure ties, and even topstitching before I worry about decorative extras.

Choose washable woven fabric like quilting cotton for beginners or twill and canvas for added durability.
Measure the wearer and plan the apron dimensions and strap lengths before cutting the fabric.
Prewash, dry, and press fabric according to its care instructions to prevent unexpected shrinkage.
Test stitch length, needle choice, thread tension, and fabric feeding on a scrap before sewing.
Press hems, pocket edges, and straps before stitching for neater, more accurate results.
Reinforce the neck strap, waist ties, and pocket corners to improve durability.
Try on the apron before finishing to check the fit, strap comfort, and pocket placement.

If you are completely new to a sewing machine, learn the main controls and sew a few straight practice seams before cutting the apron.

Start with MariaSew’s sewing machine basics for beginners or the beginner sewing techniques guide.

Why an Apron Is a Good First Sewing Project

A basic apron combines several beginner skills in one useful project: measuring, straight stitching, hemming, topstitching, pressing, making straps, pivoting at corners, and attaching a patch pocket. The shape is also easy to personalize because it does not have to fit the body as precisely as trousers, a fitted bodice, or a sleeve.

I especially like an apron as a first project after simple napkins, coasters, or a tote bag because it adds shaping and straps without introducing a zipper or complicated closure. If you want more projects that build skills in a similar order, use my easy sewing projects for beginners guide.

Materials and Tools You’ll Need to Sew an Apron

I gather everything before I cut because it is much easier to stay accurate when I am not stopping halfway through a hem to find a ruler, marking tool, or iron. You can sew this apron by hand, but a domestic sewing machine makes the long hems, straps, and topstitching much faster.

Fabric. About 1 to 1.5 yards of 44- to 45-inch-wide woven fabric is a useful planning range for many adult bib aprons, but the exact amount depends on finished size, print direction, pocket, tie style, and fabric width.
All-purpose thread. A good-quality polyester thread works well for many washable cotton, twill, canvas, and linen-blend aprons.
Sewing machine or hand-sewing needle. A machine is faster, but the construction can be sewn by hand with small, even stitches.
Fabric scissors or rotary cutter. Use sharp tools that cut cleanly without dragging the fabric out of shape.
Measuring tape, ruler, and seam gauge. These make it easier to keep the apron symmetrical and the hems consistent.
Fabric marker or tailor’s chalk. Mark cutting lines, pocket position, fold lines, and strap placement with a removable method appropriate for the fabric.
Pins or fabric clips. Use enough to hold folds and straps securely, and remove pins before the needle reaches them.
Iron and ironing board. Pressing is part of the construction process, not only a final finishing step.
Optional turning tool or safety pin. Useful if you sew the straps as tubes and turn them right side out.

If your machine is not threaded yet, do that before the fabric is under the presser foot. A threading mistake can look like a tension problem and ruin an otherwise simple seam.

Use my how to thread a sewing machine guide if you want a full setup walkthrough.

Recommended Apron Sewing Machine Setup & Project Specifications

The settings below are beginner starting points for a simple apron made from stable medium-weight woven fabric. They are not universal machine rules, because a light quilting cotton, dense canvas, and linen blend can each need a different needle, stitch length, tension, or presser-foot pressure.

I always test the exact fabric first. Fold the scrap to match the real hem or strap layers, sew a short line, inspect both sides, and change only one setting at a time if the stitch looks wrong.

Start with a straight stitch. It handles the apron body hems, strap construction, pocket attachment, reinforcement, and most topstitching.
Use the right needle for the fabric. A universal 80/12 is a common starting point for quilting cotton, while heavier twill or canvas may need a 90/14 or another needle recommended for the fabric and machine.
Keep tension near the normal setting first. Rethread and check the bobbin and needle before making large tension changes.
Slow down through bulky intersections. Folded straps, pocket corners, and thick canvas hems can create several layers under the presser foot.

The table is a setup reference, not a pattern specification. Your machine manual and the behavior of the real fabric should always override a generic starting point.

Feature / Specification	Beginner Starting Point	Why It Matters
Project type	Simple bib apron with neck strap, two waist ties and optional patch pocket	Beginner-friendly construction with useful everyday coverage
Recommended fabric	Stable woven cotton, twill, light canvas or linen blend	Easy to cut, press and topstitch
Thread	Good-quality all-purpose polyester	Durable for regular washing and everyday use
Needle	Start around 80/12 for medium cotton; 90/14 may suit heavier woven fabric	Match needle to fabric weight and machine guidance
Construction stitch	Straight stitch	Handles hems, straps, pocket and reinforcement
Starting stitch length	About 2.5-3.0 mm on medium woven fabric	Balanced everyday seam and topstitching range
Topstitch length	About 3.0 mm as a visual starting point	Slightly longer stitching can look cleaner on visible edges
Tension	Start at normal machine setting	Adjust only after threading, bobbin and needle checks
Hem finish	Double-fold hem for most raw body edges	Encloses fraying edges cleanly
Allowances	Build hem and seam allowances into the draft before cutting	Prevents the finished apron from becoming smaller than planned
Strap reinforcement	Backstitch, box, triangle or repeated stitching	Strengthens high-stress attachment points
Pressing	Press before and after major seams	Improves accuracy and final appearance

If your test seam shows loops, puckering, or visible bobbin thread, do not start the apron until the cause is clear. My sewing machine tension guide explains the troubleshooting order I use before touching the bobbin tension.

How I Sew Aprons and Test Sewing Machines at MariaSew

I personally sew the projects and use the sewing machines I recommend before I publish a verdict. An apron is one of the practical projects I like for testing because it combines long straight seams, folded hems, narrow straps, topstitching, corners, a patch pocket, and several-layer stress points without needing an advanced pattern.

When I sew an apron on a machine, I pay attention to how smoothly the pedal starts, whether the feed dogs keep the long edges straight, how the machine crosses folded strap attachments, how easy it is to maintain an even seam allowance, and whether the stitch stays balanced on both the single-layer body and thicker folded sections. I also test reverse or locking stitches, bobbin changes, needle threading, free-arm access where relevant, and how easy the machine is to recover when I deliberately rethread or change a setting.

Straight-stitch control. I sew long body hems slowly and at normal speed to see whether stitch length and feeding remain consistent.
Layer handling. I test folded straps, pocket corners, and reinforced attachment points because they reveal whether feeding changes on thicker areas.
Beginner recovery. I rethread, reseat the bobbin, change the needle, and retest so troubleshooting advice reflects what a real beginner will do.
Press-and-sew workflow. I check whether the machine stays comfortable when I move repeatedly between the iron, cutting table, and visible topstitching.
Finished-use test. I tie, untie, wear, move in, and wash test projects when appropriate so the verdict is based on durability as well as a neat first photograph.

You can read more about my hands-on review approach on the MariaSew About page.

Choose the Right Fabric for Your Apron

For a first apron, I prefer stable woven fabric because it stays flat while I measure, cut, press, and topstitch. The right fabric depends on whether you want a light kitchen apron, a sturdy craft apron, or something decorative.

Prewash fabric when it may shrink or bleed and when its care instructions allow it. Dry it the way you expect to care for the finished apron, then press it flat before measuring so the cut pieces are based on the fabric’s post-wash size.

Quilting Cotton

Quilting cotton is my easiest beginner choice because it is stable, easy to press, widely available, and simple to mark. It works well for everyday kitchen aprons and lets you practice clean hems and topstitching without fighting stretch or slippery fibers.

Cotton Twill

Cotton twill is more substantial and abrasion-resistant than many quilting cottons, so I like it for aprons that will be used often. The extra body makes pockets and straps feel sturdy, but thicker folds may need a larger needle and slower stitching at intersections.

Light Canvas or Duck

Light canvas gives a structured workshop, gardening, or craft-apron feel. It is durable, but I avoid starting with very heavy canvas on a lightweight beginner machine because multiple folded layers can become bulky quickly.

Linen or Linen Blend

Linen and linen blends are breathable and drape beautifully, making them comfortable for warm kitchens or a softer lifestyle apron. They can fray more than stable cotton, so careful edge finishing and pressing matter.

Fabric I Would Avoid for a First Apron

I would save very slippery satin, sheer fabric, stretchy jersey, thick upholstery fabric, or heavily coated material for later projects. They can still make excellent aprons, but they add cutting, feeding, edge-finishing, or needle-choice problems that are unnecessary on a first attempt.

How Much Fabric Do You Need for an Apron?

There is no single yardage that fits every apron because fabric width, body size, apron length, tie length, pocket size, and print direction all change the layout. For many adult bib aprons, roughly 1 to 1.5 yards of 44- to 45-inch-wide fabric is a useful planning range, but I always lay out the pieces before cutting.

Smaller adult or youth apron. Often fits closer to the lower end of the range when the ties and pocket are compact.
Fuller or longer adult apron. May need more fabric, especially with long wraparound waist ties.
Directional prints. Usually need extra room because pieces cannot be rotated freely to save fabric.
Matching stripes or plaids. Allow extra fabric so important lines can be aligned.
Lining or reversible design. Plan a second layer or second fabric in addition to the main apron fabric.

A quick paper layout or chalk layout on the folded fabric is safer than guessing yardage from the apron length alone.

Apron Features to Plan Before Cutting

Before I draw the pattern shape, I decide how the apron should fit and function. These small design choices determine the measurements, fabric amount, and sewing order.

Bib Height and Width

The bib should cover the upper front without sitting so high that it rubs the neck. I measure from the preferred bib top to the waist and choose a top width that feels comfortable across the chest rather than relying on one universal size.

Apron Length and Lower Coverage

Measure from the waist or upper bib position to the desired hem. A cooking apron can be knee length or shorter, while craft, gardening, and workshop aprons may benefit from more coverage or a wider lower panel.

Neck Strap

A fixed neck strap is the simplest beginner option, but its length must be checked before permanent stitching. An adjustable D-ring or slider strap can improve fit later, although it adds hardware and an extra construction step.

Waist Ties

The waist ties should be long enough to knot comfortably at the back or wrap to the front if that is the intended style. I test them around the wearer before finishing the ends because short ties are annoying to correct after final topstitching.

Patch Pocket

A simple patch pocket adds useful storage without complicating the apron construction. I place it where the hand reaches naturally, press the raw edges inward, and reinforce the upper corners because that is where pulling is concentrated.

Finished Edges

A double-fold hem is beginner-friendly because it encloses the raw edge and gives a clean inside finish. On very thick fabric I may use a narrower fold, binding, facing, or another finish to avoid excessive bulk.

Reinforced Stress Points

Neck straps, waist ties, and pocket openings are stress points. I use backstitching, repeated stitching, a small box, or a triangle depending on the look and thickness, rather than relying on a single line that may pull out over time.

How to Measure for a Simple Bib Apron

I measure the wearer instead of cutting a generic one-size shape. Use a flexible tape and record the measurements before adding any hem or seam allowance.

Bib-to-hem length. Measure from the desired top of the bib down to the finished lower hem.
Waist position. Identify where the apron will tie, then measure the desired front coverage from side to side.
Bib top width. Measure the upper-front coverage that feels comfortable without restricting the arms.
Neck strap. Measure from one upper bib corner around the neck to the other, then add the amount needed for your construction method.
Waist ties. Measure from the side of the apron to the desired knot position and add enough length for a comfortable bow.
Pocket placement. Hold your hand naturally against the apron area and mark a height that is easy to reach.

Write the finished measurements and the cutting measurements separately. That prevents the classic beginner mistake of cutting the desired finished size and then losing several inches to hems.

Beginner-Friendly Sample Apron Measurements

If you want a starting point before customizing, the measurements below work as a planning example for a medium adult bib apron. They are not a universal pattern, so compare them with the wearer’s body and preferred coverage before cutting.

Finished apron length. About 30 to 32 inches from bib top to lower hem.
Lower finished width. About 26 to 30 inches across the widest part.
Bib top finished width. About 9 to 11 inches.
Fixed neck strap. Often around 22 to 26 inches finished, but fit it on the wearer before final stitching.
Waist ties. Often around 30 to 36 inches finished per side, longer if you want front-tying or more adjustability.
Patch pocket. A finished size around 8 to 10 inches wide and 6 to 8 inches tall is useful for many kitchen aprons.

Add the allowances required by your chosen hem, strap, and pocket construction before cutting. If you use a 1/2-inch double-fold hem, for example, the cut edge must include both folds.

How to Draft a Simple Apron Without a Pattern

You do not need a commercial pattern for this beginner apron. I sketch the shape on paper first so I can see the finished proportions before transferring anything to fabric.

Draw the finished outline first. Mark the center, waist level, bib width, lower width, and finished length.
Shape the upper sides gently. Use a smooth curve or angled line from the bib to the waist instead of an abrupt corner.
Add the hem and seam allowances. Mark the cutting line outside the finished outline so the apron does not shrink during construction.
Plan the pocket and ties. Decide whether the pocket is centered or offset and whether ties will be turned tubes or folded strips.
Check symmetry. Fold the paper pattern or fabric along the center line before cutting to make sure both sides match.

A paper draft is especially helpful when the fabric is expensive or has a directional print because you can adjust proportions before touching the final material.

How to Cut the Apron Pieces

Press the prewashed fabric flat, identify the grain direction, and square the edges as needed before laying out the pattern. Keep stripes, plaids, or directional motifs facing the way you want them to appear on the finished apron.

Main apron body. Cut one body panel from the drafted shape, using the fold if your design is symmetrical and the grain permits it.
Pocket. Cut one patch-pocket piece large enough to include the top hem and turned side and bottom edges.
Neck strap. Cut one long strip or the pieces required by your adjustable-strap design.
Waist ties. Cut two matching strips, checking that both are long enough before any ends are enclosed.
Marking. Transfer pocket placement, strap positions, center points, and fold references with removable chalk or marker.

Before I move the pieces to the machine, I measure the body panel one more time and compare the two waist ties. It is much easier to correct a cutting error before the hems are sewn.

How to Sew an Apron: Step-by-Step Instructions

Once the pieces are cut, I arrange them in sewing order and keep the iron close. The steps below make a simple bib apron with folded body hems, fabric ties, and an optional patch pocket.

Before the first visible seam, sew a test line on a scrap made from the same fabric. If the stitch loops, puckers, skips, or the fabric drags, fix the setup before sewing the apron.

Step 1: Prewash, Press, and Test the Fabric

If the fabric can shrink or bleed, wash and dry it according to its care instructions before cutting. Press it flat, then test your needle, thread, straight stitch, and tension on a scrap folded to the same thickness as the apron hem.

Step 2: Prepare and Hem the Apron Body

Fold the raw body edges to the wrong side, press, then fold again to enclose the raw edge. Pin or clip the fold and topstitch close to the inner folded edge, keeping the seam allowance consistent as you sew. At corners, slow down and pivot with the needle in the fabric if your machine allows it; on curves, use a narrower fold or small easing adjustments rather than forcing a wide hem to lie flat.

Step 3: Make the Neck Strap and Waist Ties

For a turned strap, fold the strip lengthwise with right sides together, sew the long edge, then turn it right side out and press it flat. For an easier beginner method, press the long raw edges toward the center, fold the strip in half, and topstitch along the open edge. Check the finished neck strap and both waist ties against the wearer before permanent attachment.

Step 4: Attach and Reinforce the Straps

Pin the waist ties at matching heights on the side edges and position the neck strap at the upper bib corners. Make sure nothing is twisted, then try the apron on or hold it against the wearer before stitching. Reinforce each stress point with repeated stitching, a small rectangle, or a box-and-cross pattern if the fabric and design allow it.

Step 5: Make and Attach the Patch Pocket

Hem the pocket’s top edge first, then press the side and bottom allowances to the wrong side. Position the pocket on the apron, check that it is level and comfortable to reach, then topstitch the sides and bottom while leaving the top open. Reinforce the two upper corners.

Step 6: Topstitch and Check the Apron

Inspect the body hems, strap attachments, pocket, corners, and any uneven topstitching. Trim loose threads and correct a twisted tie, crooked pocket, or skipped stitch before the final press.

Step 7: Press, Try On, and Finish

Give the apron a final press from the wrong side or with a pressing cloth when the fabric requires it. Put it on, tie it the way it will normally be worn, and move naturally to check bib height, strap comfort, pocket position, and lower coverage. If a strap needs shortening, resew it cleanly rather than leaving a bulky knot.

Beginner Tips for Sewing a Neater Apron

The apron construction is simple enough that accuracy matters more than speed. A few habits make the finished project look noticeably cleaner even on a basic sewing machine.

Watch the seam guide, not only the needle. Keeping the fabric edge aligned with a guide is easier than trying to steer by staring at the moving needle.
Press before topstitching. A crisp fold gives the presser foot a clear edge to follow and reduces wavy hems.
Use clips on thick folds. They are often easier than pins on bulky canvas straps or several folded layers.
Test the pocket position while wearing the apron. A pocket that looks centered on the table can feel too high or low once the apron is tied.
Slow down at corners and intersections. Controlled stitching is more useful than top speed when several layers meet.
Use a seam ripper when needed. Removing one uneven section usually produces a better result than trying to hide a crooked seam with more stitching.

If you want to strengthen the exact beginner skills used in this project, revisit my 15 sewing techniques for beginners after finishing your apron and choose the next technique you want to practice.

Easy Ways to Customize Your Apron

Once the basic apron fits well, small design changes can make it better for cooking, gardening, craft work, gifts, or everyday wear. I would add one change at a time so the project stays beginner-friendly.

Divide the patch pocket. Add one vertical line of stitching to create separate sections for utensils, pens, or tools.
Add an adjustable neck strap. Use D-rings, a slider, or button positions so multiple people can wear the same apron.
Use contrasting topstitching. A visible thread color can turn ordinary construction seams into a design detail, but test tension and stitch length first.
Add bias binding. Binding can finish curved edges neatly and create contrast, although it requires more accurate edge control than a simple double-fold hem.
Make it reversible. Use two apron layers and turn them together for a cleaner inside finish and two wearable sides.
Add a towel loop. A small reinforced loop at the side or waist is useful for kitchen or workshop aprons.
Personalize the pocket. Embroidery, appliqué, fabric labels, or decorative stitching can be added before the pocket is sewn to the apron.

For a first apron, I would finish the basic version before adding hardware or decorative techniques. A well-fitted simple apron is more useful than an overloaded design with weak straps or uneven hems.

How to Wash and Care for a Handmade Apron

Care should match the fabric and thread you used. If the apron was prewashed and sewn from washable cotton, twill, or many linen blends, routine laundering is usually straightforward, but the fabric manufacturer’s care instructions should take priority.

Wash with similar colors. This is especially important for dark prints or fabrics that may continue to release dye.
Close or secure hardware. If the apron has D-rings, snaps, or other hardware, secure it to reduce snagging.
Untie straps before washing. Loose knots can tighten in the wash and twist the apron body.
Reshape before drying. Smooth the bib, pocket, and straps so deep wrinkles do not set.
Press as needed. Use the fabric-appropriate iron temperature and a pressing cloth on materials that can shine or mark.

Recheck the strap attachment points after repeated washing. If a high-stress seam begins to loosen, reinforce it before the fabric tears.

Common Apron-Sewing Mistakes to Avoid

Most apron problems start before the final seam. Cutting to the finished size, skipping pressing, or attaching ties without a fit check can create issues that are much harder to correct later.

Cutting before the finished size is clear. Write down finished measurements and cutting measurements separately so hem and seam allowances are not forgotten.
Using unstable fabric for the first attempt. Very slippery, stretchy, or extremely heavy fabric adds difficulty that a beginner apron does not need.
Skipping prewashing when shrinkage is likely. A finished apron can become shorter, narrower, or twisted after the first wash if the fabric changes size.
Not testing the machine on scrap. A tension or needle problem is easier to fix on an offcut than on the visible front of the apron.
Making the neck strap too short. Fit it before permanent attachment so the bib does not pull against the neck.
Attaching twisted waist ties. Lay both ties flat and check their orientation before sewing them down.
Using only one weak line of stitching at stress points. Reinforce straps and pocket corners so repeated tying and pulling do not tear the seam.
Stretching the fabric while hemming. Guide the fabric without pulling from behind the presser foot to avoid wavy edges.
Placing the pocket by eye without trying on the apron. Mark the pocket position while the apron is worn or held at the correct height.
Skipping the final press. Pressing settles hems, topstitching, straps, and pocket edges and makes the finished shape look intentional.

If something looks wrong, stop and correct the specific section instead of sewing over it. Aprons are forgiving projects, and a small amount of unpicking usually saves the finished piece.

Is an Apron a Good First Sewing Project?

Yes. A simple apron is an excellent early project once you can thread the machine and sew a reasonably straight seam. It teaches measuring, hems, corners, straps, pockets, reinforcement, and pressing while still producing something useful even if the topstitching is not perfectly even.

If you have never used a sewing machine before, spend one short practice session on scrap first. My how to learn sewing guide gives you a broader beginner path, and my best sewing machines for beginners guide can help if you still need a machine.

Final Thoughts: Sew Your First Apron With Confidence

A beginner apron does not need a complicated pattern to look polished. Measure the wearer, choose a stable washable fabric, build the hem and strap allowances into the cutting plan, press each fold, reinforce the stress points, and test the sewing-machine setup before you sew the visible seams.

The finished apron gives you practice with several skills you will reuse in almost every future sewing project: straight seams, edge finishing, topstitching, corners, straps, pockets, fitting, and pressing. Once those feel comfortable, you can repeat the apron in heavier fabric, add adjustable hardware, try bias binding, or move on to more advanced beginner projects.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much fabric do I need to sew an apron?

For many adult bib aprons, roughly 1 to 1.5 yards of 44- to 45-inch-wide fabric is a useful planning range, but exact yardage depends on apron size, fabric width, print direction, pocket, lining, and tie length. Lay out the pieces before cutting.

Can I sew an apron without a pattern?

Yes. A simple bib apron can be drafted from body measurements. Draw the finished shape first, then add the hem and seam allowances before transferring the pattern to fabric.

What is the best fabric for a beginner apron?

Stable woven quilting cotton is one of the easiest fabrics to cut, press, and sew. Cotton twill, light canvas, and linen blends are also good choices when you want more structure or a different drape.

Should I prewash fabric before making an apron?

Prewash when the fabric may shrink or bleed and its care instructions allow it. Dry it as you expect to care for the finished apron, then press before measuring and cutting.

What sewing machine stitch should I use for an apron?

A regular straight stitch handles most apron hems, straps, pocket attachment, reinforcement, and topstitching. Start around 2.5 to 3.0 mm on medium woven fabric and test the exact setup on scrap.

What needle should I use to sew an apron?

Match the needle to the fabric and machine. A universal 80/12 is a common starting point for medium woven cotton, while heavier twill or canvas may need a 90/14 or another needle recommended for the material.

How long should apron waist ties be?

The correct length depends on the wearer’s waist and whether the ties will knot at the back or wrap to the front. Measure the wearer and add enough length for a comfortable bow instead of relying on one universal number.

How do I keep apron straps from coming loose?

Reinforce each strap attachment with backstitching, repeated stitching, a small rectangle, or a box-and-cross style reinforcement. Check that the fabric layers are flat and the ties are not twisted before sewing.

How do I add a pocket to an apron?

Hem the pocket’s top edge, press the other raw edges to the wrong side, position it on the apron, then topstitch the sides and bottom while leaving the top open. Reinforce the upper corners.

Can I sew an apron by hand?

Yes. A sewing machine is faster for long seams, but the same construction can be hand sewn with small, secure stitches and careful pressing.

How do I stop an apron hem from looking wavy?

Press the fold before stitching, avoid stretching the fabric, use a suitable needle and stitch length, and let the feed dogs move the fabric. Test on scrap if the hem continues to wave.

What should I sew after making an apron?

A tote bag, drawstring bag, pillow cover, simple skirt, zip pouch, or another beginner project can build on the measuring, hemming, topstitching, pocket, and pressing skills you practiced on the apron.